Nationalities and Demographics on the Camino de Santiago

Amazon paperback $12.95, Kindle $4.95

I’m often asked–what nationalities will you see the most of on the Camino de Santiago? It is a very good and interesting question. For starters, you will see absolutely every nation BUT ONE well represented on the Camino. That nation is Great Britain. This, of course, created plenty of commentary about our Anglican cousins. Why are the British so conspiciously absent from the Camino.

Many speculated that it had to do with a latent loyalty to none other than Henry VIII. Indeed, the Camino has Catholic roots, while the estimable former King of England  was one of the two greatest enemies of all time of the Church of Rome (Martin Luther being the other). The formerly Catholic country of England now seems very wary of anything pointing towards Rome, instead of Canterbury.

But with that question out of the way, the larger issue of Camino demographics is a happy one. Because, in short, every country on the European Continent has a major presence on the Camino de Santiago. Unsurprisingly, you can add a large Irish contingent in as well. There was much debate as to whether the most highly represented nationality was the Germans or the French. Indeed, it’s a close call. I would nuance the discussion by saying that in the early stages (while closest to France) there are more French than anybody. But both years that I did the Camino, the Germans were most represented by the time we entered the ethereal confines of the Galician forest. A famous German comedian, Hape Kerkeling, walked the Camino and wrote a book, ‘I’m Off Now’, that sold over 3,000,000 copies in Germany alone. That had the effect of ratcheting up the number of Germans on the Camino, similar to the way Bill Bryson’s humorous narrative of the Appalachian Trail sharply increased the number of hikers on America’s most popular footpath.

But please don’t forget the Italians and the Spanish. They are the next two most well-represented nations on the Camino. Statistics indicate 18% of pilgrims do the Camino by bicycle. Based on my naked observation, it seemed like half of that 18% were Italians–those ancient Mediterranean people of great style and flair. Unsurprisingly, Spaniards are ubiquitous on the Camino, and all the better for it. Personally, they are my favorite European nationality (Many would agree). Often Spaniards do the Camino in sections (“trozos”), whereas people are unlikely to come far distances from places like Ireland or the United States to do just a section.

But these four major European nations are only part of the story on El Camino de Santiago. Pilgrims rally to the Camino from all corners of the European continent, whether it be the rugged Scandinavians or the newly liberated Eastern Europeans. Yes, I walked with pilgrims that could tell me all about eating reindeer above the Arctic Circle; others gave vivid descriptions of life in places like Latvia or Moldova about life under the Soviet Iron Curtain. The European Union has promoted the Camino as part of their mission to unify the Continent. Daily life on the Camino indicates just why they do this.

Americans. Dare I say that loaded word, when discussing a European delight. Yes, Americans have finally discovered the Camino de Santiago. In fact, the number of Americans is increasing at almost 50% per year. And Emilio Estevez’s new movie, ‘The Way’, starring Martin Sheen has only increased the interest. Just like if you want to visit Cuba in its pristine state, you should go now before the embargo is lifted, an American who wants to do the Camino while it is an ovewhelmingly European experience shouldn’t wait long. Because every American who does the Camino has such a great time that they return home only to convince a half-dozen compatriots to cross the Big Pond and try it. The good news is that most Americans seem to be on their best behavior on the Camino; the atrocities that made us infamous in ‘The Ugly American Abroad’ are not on display. Further, the toxic anti-Americanism witnessed in so many parts of Europe in the last decade seem to be in remission, especially on the Camino.

In summary, the Camino de Santiago really is the best way to see the Old Continent of Europe for the simple reason that it takes dead aim at the major shortcoming of most foreign trips–the problem in meeting people. You can’t help,while walking, eating, and sleeping day after day with people, to meet them in authentic, non-touristy ways. And that’s what makes a trip. Buen camino.

Bill Walker is the author of the recently released, The Best Way–El Camino de Santiago. Paperback $12.95, Kindle $4.95.  He also is the author of Skywalker–Close Encounters on the Appalachian Trail (2008), and Skywalker–Highs and Lows on the Pacific Crest Trail (2010).

The Best Way–El Camino de Santiago Reaches Top 1% on Amazon

I must admit I was worried. My first two narratives, Skywalker–Close Encounters on the Appalachian Trail and Skywalker–Highs and Lows on the Pacific Crest Trail had begun selling immediately after publication. That is probably not due to me, but rather the fabulous cultures of both these two national scenic trails. There are tens of thousands of people who regularly read everything they can find on the Appalachian and Pacific Crest Trails. I consider myself lucky as a first time author to have had so many readers.

But my third book, which I had done so much research for and spent so much time on–The Best Way–El Camino de Santiago, did not start selling immediately. “What’s the problem? Am I marketing it wrong?” I kept bleating to friends and colleagues. Well it’s not a problem–simply a fact–that the readership market for books on the Camino de Santiago is nowhere near as large as on our great hiking trails here at home.

The good news, however, is that Americans are learning about the Camino de Santiago at seemingly the speed of light. It is Europe’s most popular footpath (variously referred to as a spiritual pilgrimage, religious pilgrimage, even Europe’s largest singles bar). Europeans of all stripes take to it each year in waves and throngs. A German comedian, Hape Kerkeling, walked it several years back and wrote ‘I’m Off Now’. The book has sold millions of copies in German alone, and now there are as many German pilgrims as there are French pilgrims. Spaniards and Italians are also out there in droves. But until recently Americans had not really discovered the glories of the Camino de Santiago. But that is changing rapidly. The number of American pilgrims on the Camino is doubling each year. The Hollywood movie, The Way, starring Martin Sheen has greatly increased awareness.

Perhaps that is why my narrative has begun to gain greater circulation. Sales have more than doubled the last two months and the book has now reached the top 1% on Amazon. Hopefully, it will fit within the rich mosaic of resources that aspiring pilgrims have at their disposal when readying for a Camino pilgrimage. Some history was necessary to show just how this mass pilgrimage, one of the largest sustained movements in human history, developed. But I have done everything I can to make it ‘light history’ with the purpose of carrying the story of my pilgrimage. Incidentally, I had such a good time in 2010 that I came back and did the whole thing again in 2011. Honest to God, the Camino de Santiago is the very best way I’ve ever found to travel. For that reason it was a no-brainer to name the book, The Best Way–El Camino de Santiago.

Amazon.com   paperback $12.95,  Kindle $4.95  www.thebestwaycamino.com

Bill Walker is also the author of Skywalker–Close Encounters on the Appalachian Trail (2008), and Skywalker–Highs and Lows on the Pacific Crest Trail (2010). Walker, who is 6’11”, is now working on a book on the subject of height.

Go to Cuba, Go to the Camino de Santiago

Amazon paperback $12.95, Kindle $4.95,   www.thebestwaycamino.com

It’s amazing. I am literally getting e-mails and phone calls every single day by people saying they have seen the movie, ‘The Way’, or read, ‘The Best Way–El Camino de Santiago’, and are now planning to walk El Camino de Santiago in Europe. You’ve got to wonder, why?

The riddle may be a profound one. Humans have long history as wanderers. Whether you are talking about the aboriginal people, ancient Israeli tribes, Bedouins, Kurds, you name it, this nomadic instinct in humans has consistently revealed itself. “Solvitur ambulando (walking solves all)”, wrote St. Augustine. Perhaps we are being truest to ourselves when in perpetual motion.

The Camino is not the day-in, day-out struggle of the Appalachian Trail or Pacific Crest Trail. Nonetheless, a ‘pilgrim’ averages walking 15 miles per day. That ain’t chopped liver. Better yet, pilgrims from all over the world are now doing the 500 mile pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

The Camino seems to fill that void that conventional travel often lacks–the desire for the deeply real. How often have we seen people return from trips, trying to project excitement about their journey, only to betray disappointment. But the Camino really does offer a journey with deeper ramifications.

The wave of interest being seen from Americans in the wake of the Hollywood movie, ‘The Way’, with Martin Sheen, is manifested in ever greater numbers of Americans taking to the Camino. For that reason, I compare doing a pilgrimage on the Camino to taking a trip to Cuba. Do it now, before it gets overcommercialized and overrun by Americans, and while it still retains its mostly European character.

Bill Walker is also the author of Skywalker–Close Encounters on the Appalachian Trail (2008) and Skywalker–Highs and Lows on the Pacific Crest Trail (2010). Walker, who is 6’11”, is now working on a book on the subject of height.

The Best Way–El Camino de Santiago

Bill Walker–author of Skywalker–Close Encounters on the Appalachian Trail (2008) and Skywalker–Highs and Lows on the Pacific Crest Trail (2010) has just released his third outdoor narrative. It is called ‘The Best Way–El Camino de Santiago’, and sells on Amazon.com in paperback for $12.95, and Kindle for $4.95.

Walker walked the full Camino Frances (from St. Jean Pied de Port in southern France to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain) in both 2010 and 2011. It measures 800 kilometers (500 miles). In 2010, he also continued walking all the way to the Atlantic coast at Finistierre, whose name is derived from the ancient belief that it was the end of the world.

The name of the book is derived from Walker’s conclusion that El Camino de Santiago(The Camino) is the best way to travel. The Appalachian Trail and Pacific Crest Trail are ascetic and agonizing, and very fulfilling to be sure. Conventional trips tend to be ‘hand-held’ and overly sedentary. However, the Camino is the perfect balance of outdoor struggle, camaraderie, sightseeing, food, and wine.

It is also by far the most popular footpath in Europe, drawing 200,000 ‘pilgrims’ per year. In this mix are all the European nationalities, and now Asians and Americans. A German comedian, Hape Kerkeling, wrote a bestselling narrative of the Camino; subsequently, Germans are the nationality most represented on the modern Camino, followed closely by French and Spanish. Having taken many trips to Europe, Walker found the Camino to be by far the best way to meet the denizens of the Old Continent. That perspective, plus more of his now well-known self-deprecating and mischievous humor, make this a delightful page-turner.

Great interest in the Camino de Santiago